Need Help with making a Reel Maintenance Tool/Material Kit

[whiskeyjack]

YouTube tutorials demonstrating how to clean and repair Mitchell reels have bee very helpful. Videos from this forum, David Kuntz (2nd Chance Tackle) and YoungMartin'sreels are the best. Aside from assorted screwdrivers, an 11mm deep socket and a tweezer, there doesn't seem like a need for many other tools. But, I'm new to this. And, I don't know the best tools to use. I don't know the best solvent to use on these parts; or the best oil and grease in re-assembly. I know it ain't rocket science but, I'm a greenhorn.

Just asking for some recommendations to help me be less clumsy in maintaining these reels. Screw driver sets, tweezers, prying instruments, brushes, steel wool, sandpaper, toothbrush or brass brush, etc. . .makes, brands, sources. . . I would appreciate a list of things you all use in maintaing reels. Thank you.

[don309]

Here's a couple old school Mitchell took I like. Not that I do, but you could tear down the whole reel with them.

[FusilDarne]

I think Don nailed it.

The tools that come with the reels, or, were sold in a little kit for reel repair are poor substitutes for decent tools at home. I’d rather bring a spare reel on a fishing trip, than tools to work on one that is causing trouble.

You don’t need much to completely disassemble a 300 style reel. Deep well 12mm 1/4” drive socket, and a ratchet, bar, or driver handle to fit it. A screwdriver that fits the 3 side plate screws, perfectly. I use a bit that came in a gunsmith’s screwdriver set (I have more than one bad habit) and the driver that came with it. If you have to remove the bail, screw drivers to fit those screws, again, the gunsmith’s set has everything, but, I seldom remove a bail. A fine needle nose pliers, is nice, but, not totally necessary. I seldom remove the lube port in a reel, either, I prefer to have a look inside the reel and lube the parts directly, rather than lubing through the port.

My Dad had a little collection of those “reel tools” in his tackle box. We never used them. They are still there. I would prefer not to use them on a fishing trip.

Ted

[GreatLaker]

whiskeyjack,
Sounds like you are getting along in your Mitchell journey!
The topic of reel maintenance is a bit complicated and depending on which Mitchell model you are working on your equipment can vary. Don't forget that many models evolved over time and some early models require different procedures than the later one's.

My favorite Mitchell model is the 300 and if you can service a 300 you can also service, or partly service, the other models that use the constant cycle gearing as well as the newer M8 (300A) models.

As far as tutorials go there are only a few U-tube one's I recommend, all are by Wallace Carney.
Follow the link below to find an older post which lists the u-tube posts by Wallace (aka Mitchellreelmuseum).

https://mitchellreelmuseum.com/forum/vi ... 12e3#p2435

Tool List
Here is a list for beginners off the top of my head.
1. Paper towels
2. Slotted end screwdrivers. (It is important to match the end of the screwdriver to the size and width of the fastener, a set of assorted screwdriver bits and handle is my favorite.)
3. A 12mm socket wrench or open end wrench.
4. An X-Acto knife with the very pointed blades.(see photo)
5. A toothbrush
6. Small brass bristled brush.
7. Q-Tips
8. WD-40
9. PB Blaster penetrating oil
10. Corrosion-X
11. Tweezers

02 Chemicals-edited-2.jpg (161.73 KiB) Viewed 8690 times

01 TOOLS-edited-2.jpg (180.61 KiB) Viewed 8690 times

A lot depends on the individual. Some folks have a nice workshop area, some use the kitchen table, some have small children around, etc. This will influence your choice on which solvent to use as they all have different characteristics. I like WD-40 as a solvent. It doesn't stink as much, less flammable, and readily available. My second choice for a solvent would be low odor mineral spirits, just all depends.

There are so many choices out there now days you might want to experiment a little and see what works best for you.

Hope this helps. If you run into problems we are here to help.

Kind Regards,
Bill

[whiskeyjack]

Thank you, guys. I sure appreciate the benefit of your experience. I had some things on the tool list figured out but, it's nice to have a broader field of view.

I'm working on what I think is the worst of my 300's right now: sorting out the various parts and their names and cleaning things up for when the Penn lube kit arrives. For now, I struggle to remember parts names and their place in the system. So, I take a few pictures for reference. But, aside from my clumsiness, poor eyesight and colorful vocabulary, I seem to actually be learning something .

Where are the best schematics for the Mitchell reels? And, is Wallace still around? His videos are priceless. And, there's only a couple others on YouTube who seem to be a cut above the rest: 2nd chance tackle and youngmartinsreels. They point to Wallace and this museum forum for inspiration.

It's a crime to have so many Mitchell reels and not know how to maintain them. That, and for the poor quality or obscene expense of newer, shinier reels of virtually every immaginable weight, size, purpose and endorsement, it's a shame to not spend a modest amount of money on something that has been time-tested and can be maintained. Like photography when I stepped away from digital and went back to film, I'm favoring the Mitchell's over my Shimano & Penn reels - something about knowing the guts of what you're using to catch fish. The fish do not care about the reel or the rod and, most fishing tackle is designed to catch fishermen. . .not fish.

[whiskeyjack]

.....and, here's a source for schematics I found today. Very helpful stuff. https://www.reelschematic.com/reel-sche ... #gsc.tab=0

[piscesman]

That's a GREAT tool kit for cleaning your reels. The only thing I can add is to buy a plastic dish pan to disassemble the reel. That way no parts are lost especially those pesky shims. Someone here had explained the general location of the certain thickness shims on the reel. If you don't want to purchase a dish pan, then a 1-gallon empty anti-freeze container will suffice.
Kim

[whiskeyjack]

You are absolutely right: those shims and springs bear watching. They're like snap rings on axles & shafts: once they're out of the groove and get off the leash, they're gone forever.

I'm using an 8 oz plastic food storage container to store and soak parts as they come off, (idea from Wallace's videos). Theres a lid on this container to control evaporative odor from the penetrating oil I'm using for solvent. I was not able to find an odorless penetrating oil: they all stink. In a garage, I wouldn't care. In my house, on the kitchen table. . .different deal. I might try Great Laker's idea of an odorless paint thinner later. But, for now I've found that FVP Penetrating Oil has the least offensive and least lingering odor.

To control the mess of cleaning parts after disassembly, I've cut off the top of a one-gallon milk jug and then cut holes on opposite sides for gloved fingers to fit through to hold and brush/clean parts. This prevents splatter from the parts cleaner (as I brush the parts) and over-spray (while top-down solvent spraying/rinsing). It's a little overkill for now but after some experience, I might not be so sloppy and maybe just use the shallow plastic food containers.

I'm using q-tips, soldering brushes (88cents for three) and old toothbrushes to clean with. Soldering brushes are designed to smear flux and are too supple: bristles need to be cut down to make them more stiff. Brass brushes from HF are cheap enough as well. Except for the brass brushes, I might not recycle used brushes. We'll see.

Thanks to Don309 and FusilDarne (Ted) as well for taking time to post commentary and pics). 'Appreciate the help.