Beginner Basics: which cleaner, grease & oil?

[mitchell73]

MRMuseum forum:

What's the best cleaning fluid, oil and grease that is readily available?

Thanks

Thomas

[Bailarm]

I imagine opinions will vary depending on what country you are in.

We in the UK were blown away by Reel X Soft grease, which seems to have come to us from Germany, but appears to be a US invention.


But the quality suddenly changed and the grease gave off oil that leaked out of your reel. This happened at the time of a packaging change to blue tubs.

If the original stuff is still available in clear tubs anywhere it would be perfect.

As to cleaning; I always used White Spirit, a UK Turpentine substitute often used for cleaning paint brushes. It dissolves the grease and also penetrates the castings, pulling out all the old stuff, but penetrating the castings. This is important as it seems have a neutralising and preventative affect on corrosion. But it never needed neutralising before painting with any paint, even cellulose.


This link is to the new stuff....it just isn't the same product, so avoid it:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154507048092 ... 58361d38df

[don309]

I use PB Blaster to remove grease and oil, only takes a little. I have been trying this, this season Ardent Freshwater Reel Care 3 Pack / Fishing Reel Cleaner Lubricator & Grease / Includes Reel Butter Grease, Reel Kleen Cleaner, and Reel Butter Oil. I got it form Amazon $16.00. I'm very happy with it! I wipe it down with the reel kleen. I also coat the whole reel (Saltwater & freshwater) with Corrosion Block again doesn't take much. It's a marine grease used on boats. I had a Mitchell 300, dropped in saltwater and just wiped it down good, and no corrosion! Wipe the outside of the reel down. But I do like the butter grease/oil.

[Bonanza]

Hello Thomas,
I have worked on Mitchell reels since 1969 herein the USA.
Depending on where you live in the world might limit what you have access to for cleaning internal parts of your Mitchell and then re-lubricating. For years the main lube used was a light brown/tan in color then in the later years was changed to a greenish/blue in color lube. Garcia also distributed a tube of oil with reels. The intention was that when reel lube started to dry out and impede reel operation that you could/would add oil thru the lube port screw. In theory the oil would mix with the drying lube and remix into a homogeneous lube. Unfortunately it never really worked that way and you ended up with a reel that never cranked properly and oozed oil.
If you removed the dryed out lube, placed in a container then added drops of the oil back the lube and remixed it could be used again in the reel.
To make a much longer story short, I have found WD-40 lubricant either spray from can or preferably the lubricant without propellant works best for dissolving old lube and freeing seized parts. WD-40 will also not damage original reel paint. As for re-lubricating the reel I would look for a soft non-sticky lube. I personally like and use “Aqua-Lube”
I have been using it for quite a while and it performs well.
Please remember that when re-lubing your reel to use it sparingly, a very light coat to protect the internal parts and just tiny bit extra on the moving parts will do the trick.
I hope this helps
Regards, Bonanza

[Bonaventure]

Bail arm mentions white spirits, in North America we call it mineral spirits, it is similar to varsol. Odourless paint thinner iis another similar product.

Hello Mitchell Mates.

I use a clear synthetic grease called Superlube on the gears, as well as most other points. I put a dab of extra grease in the case where it doesn't touch the gears so it will be there if I decide to put a bit more on the moving parts. I also use a cotton swab (Qtip) to coat the inside of the case before anything goes in. Superlube is pretty slippery. Don't recommend using soap based grease or lithium grease. I bought 2 reels from a fellow at work who told me that he used lithium grease, everything inside was black. I think there was a reaction between the aluminum alloy and the lithium.

For oil, I use Weber Hang on in a spray can. I only use it on the handle and the bail pivot points and bail spring. I spray it liberally into thr spring area try to shake it around to completely cover the spring and protect from corrosion. Look for a spray oil that is a bit heavy, the idea is that it clings to surfaces. The spray gets in there and covers what you need. I spray it from a couple of angles and wipe of what leaks out.

Superlube also makes oil products, so maybe it would be good for reels as well.

I am not plugging any one product, these work for me.

Best wishes.

G. Glen Simpson
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia

[Bonanza]

I agree, I have found most Lithium based grease to sticky

[Schrack]

I have had luck with Blaster White Lithium, made in USA.
Comes out like shaving cream.
The trick is do not over lube.
A small amount goes a long way.
After it is used it gets a little dark and still retains its slimmynes.
If you over grease it comes out any place it can.
Been using it for about 2 years and have had good results.

[Wallace Carney]

Hello Thomas,

As a novice who has restored maybe 8 Mitchell reels, I can give you my 2 cents. In my opinion Goo-Gone is the best for cleaning these reels inside-out. It's strong enough to remove any tough grease, goo of any kind, and your wife will like it because it smells good plus it won't damage any surfaces like countertops, wood or any other common surfaces on tables. Just remove the internal gears and anything else that needs cleaning and drop them in a bowl of Goo-Gone. Let them soak for about an hour depending on how bad they're gummed up and then use a toothbrush (not the wife's) to scrub these parts.

Goo-Gone Cleaner..png (155.57 KiB) Viewed 33302 times

As a cleaner, it also works for scrubbing your reel's painted parts, or parts to be painted. After cleaning, wash the Goo-Gone off with hot water. When it dries you will be amazed at just how clean the parts look and again, no mess! You can now prepare the parts for painting or if you were just cleaning your reel, apply a very thin coat of WD-40 and rub it in with a tooth brush. This will bring back the luster, the deep black satin finish these "sexy" Mitchell reels are known for.

As for grease, just get a small tub of any marine grade grease. Apply a thin layer of grease on all internal parts including the inner casings. Last but most important, have fun!

Kind Regards, Wallace

[Naterjm]

This is all some great insight.

I’ve got what I think is a very old Mitchell 300, whatever grease is in there has definitely dried out a bit, or dirt or something.

I’m pretty handy at taking things apart for cleaning and restoring, but I want to make sure I’ve done my homework before I open this reel up.

I just put up a post in the collection forum if you’re interested at what I’ve got to work with.

Definitely needs some attention.

Thank you all for sharing your insights and experience.

[Wallace Carney]

Hello Nate, to our forum!

I did a few videos on cleaning/servicing Mitchell reels. Here's one I'm sure you will appreciate on servicing the Mitchell 300. See https://mitchellreelmuseum.com/garcia-m ... ce-repair/

Let me know if it helps,
Wallace

[shootrj2003]

I clean with real mineral spirits in the metal can, then lube with white ,red or chain grease,I don’t put gobs on I only wipe on a thin layer.

[Bonaventure]

Hello everyone,

I have come across another grease that I believe will be good for reels. It is called Loctite Viperlube Synthetic grease. It appears to be similar to Superlube, except that it is a pale amber colour. Superlube is clear. I have yet to use Viperlube, but will do so on the next reel I service.

Best wishes

G. Glen Simpson
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia

[Bonaventure]

The recommendations here are what we as individuals use, my recommendations are not better than any other poster.

Lubricants have progressed greatly in the many years since Mitchell reels first arrived. What was available in the 1950s was appropriate for the time. It required more frequent cleaning and regreaseing than more modern products.

The old soap based greases were used in automotive applications that required periodic lubrication with a grease gun that replaced the old grease. Still are in use for that matter. When I was an aircraft mechanic we would put the grease gun on the fitting and pump grease in until clean grease came out. Then we wiped off the old grease. This was done monthly to dozens of points around the airframe. Thus, soap based automotive greases may not be a good choice for our usage.

Various recommended greases may have varying availability depending on where a member lives. One may see something and remember that it is mentioned here.

All the best

Glen

[linewinder]

My pickup truck (ute?) came with joints that did not have grease gun fittings. These were meant to be pre-lubed for life, which seems to work out for a few years. I wonder what type of grease is in those things.

FWIW, I've been using Super Lube lately, and just finished up a tube of green "teflon" grease of the old Gander Mountain brand. That seemed to work better than the Super Lube in one Mitchell 300.

[Bonaventure]

From what I gather from reading the specs on Super glue and Viper lube, it appears that Viper lube is for high heat applications. Even given that our Mitchell reels don't need the high heat handling properties, I think it will be a good product.

Bonne soiree

Glen

[Bonaventure]

Hello Mitchell Mates,

OK, I have serviced 4 reels in the last week. Only one is a Mitchell. I used Loctite Viper lube that I suggested about a few weeks ago on this thread. It is similar to the Superlube product that I pitched before and is a synthetic grease. I like it, it is very slippery, easy to apply and coats well. I would say it is about the same as Superlube, for our purposes.

Best wishes

Glen in Nova Scotia

[Baron2]

I guess I'm not too far off then, Judging by what I see here. I have a cleaning schedule and it has worked for two years so far as that in all the longer I've been cleaning reels. It is as follows:
Supplies
-I slice hotel keys and/or old credit cards into scrapers and toothpicks to remove all old grunk
-I gather q-tips
-paper towels
-small rubbermaid styled food storage containers
-My wife's toothbrushes
Cleaners:
-mineral spirits
-Isopropyl Alcohol
-T9 Boeshield by Boeing
Lube and protection:
-3-in-one oil, I know, it can get gummy, I like it anyway.
-Penn Reel grease applied with q-tips and flux brushes
-T9 Boeshield applied to all surfaces for protection

[Bonaventure]

Hello Baron,

You are doing it right. The Lubricants you use are suitable. The T9 BOESHIELD is intriguing. We use a similar product called FLUID FILM, which is a Lanolin based product. I have all my 300s treated with a corrosion preventative film for Aluminum, called Chromacoat.

3 in 1 oil is not for close tolerance items like sewing machines, firearms etc that being just my opinion. i use mineral oil on my sewing machine, it is actually Norton Honing Oil. Compressor oil and air tool oil are similar. and they would do for reels as well.

All the recommendations in this thread for lubricants apply, with synthetic greases being better than the older type soap grease. Use what suits you.

The T9 BOESHILD is a new twist, and I think it deserves a try.

Glen

[Baron2]

My family has always used 3 in One for our sewing machines and I wish I know more specifically why not to. Perhaps it is just the era. Maybe the older machine, our old singers, were more appropriate to benefit from 3 in One than todays machines. I just got a used brother and hope to have it up-and-running during winter. I won't use 3-In-One on it. For guns I hear it is too thick and sticks in cold weather. I've always used Hopps gun oil.
The Boeshield was introduced to me by a fella whom is somewhat of an expert on fly reel restoration. His mane is Bulldog1935 of FiberglassFlyrodders.com. I recommend him as a resource. Apparently T9 is initially a great penetrant, doesn't hurt patina, works for plastic or metal and once dry it leaves a wipe-able Carnuba Wax residue. It is suggested that Boeing developed it for their airliners. It is great stuff akin to how silicone works.
Your Chromacoat sounds like something I could sure use in some of my reels that are missing their finish.
I'm almost out of the 3-In-One and once out I'll make a better choice.

[Bonaventure]

Hi again,

I think the reason that some don't like 3 in 1 Oil is because of the 3 functions within the formulation. Lubricate, Clean, Preserve.

Basically, it has evaporative properties than leave a film which is to prevent corrosion, but does not lubricate a moving contact point sufficiently. the protective coating heats up, breaks down and leaves a gummy residue, with little or lubrication property. Fast moving lubrication points like what is found in a sewing machine need oil that will stay in place. This is only my opinion.

It is the same reason that I, for one do not use WD40 as a lubricant. It is great to drive water out of little areas, nooks and crannies, but it evaporates quickly and there is not sufficient lubricant to do the job. WD stands for Water Displacement. The solution is heavier than water and floats the water out of the recess or off the surface. WD40 is also good as a cleaner, but not as a lubricant. Again, my opinion.

Grease is required between gears and good old fashioned mineral oil in other points where grease doesn't go. if the oil or grease is specifically for reels, who can dispute it's use?

Best wishes,

Glen

[Bailarm]

The best thing I ever found for lubricating the 300 reel was Reel X Soft Grease. I was never able to establish just where it was made; there were websites suggesting it was both American and German.

It was based upon the lubricants used in wind turbines the sites said.

However, it's probably moot as the last batch, with new labelling, was just not the same stuff and quickly split into a light grease and a fine oil that leaked out.

I could have mixed that up myself!

It's sad because the reels I lubricated with the original version are still good, five years on, as the day they left the workshop.


I don't know what happened with Reel X. The products from Germany, imported into the UK briefly by Askari, all became poorer versions of themselves when the labelling changed. The greases and oils even changed colour. Perhaps it was a case of forgery?

[Baron2]

I find this subject intriguing and confusing. And perhaps it matters and perhaps not. I've not seen long term studies with controls that would support defendable conclusions. My Son is a refiner and he was noncommittal. I had heard not to use 3-in-one on tightly toleranced items and that wherever it is used it potentially dries and leaves an unpleasant residue. But it has done well for me with the level of reels I've used it on. It also does not seem all that persistent. So there seems no especially large consensus, no cultish brand of magic juice that you all agree on. It makes me feel more comfortable knowing that. I'll be looking to replace 3-in-one soon. I think I like the Penn Reel Grease for now and will find a better oil.

[daniel998]

When it comes to cleaning fluids, oils, and greases for bikes, I've found that there are a lot of different options available, but it really depends on what you're trying to clean or lubricate. I usually use a general-purpose bike cleaning solution for most of my bike cleaning needs, and for greasing my chain, I've had good luck with a wax-based lubricant.
As for getting bike grease out of clothes, I recently came across an interesting info https://www.bikethesites.com/how-to-get ... f-clothes/
Have you tried any cleaning fluids, oils, or greases that you particularly like? And have you had any experience trying to get bike grease out of clothes?

[FusilDarne]

There are two versions of 3 in 1 oil.

The version most are familiar with is the red and white can. It is mineral oil mixed with citronella, and is intended as a light duty lubricant mostly for indoor use. Think of what a housewife would use on a squeaky hinge. The citronella makes it smell pleasant, it adds nothing to the performance of the lubricant. One of my other hobbies is riding and repairing Sturmey Archer internal gear bicycle hubs, and regular 3 in 1 oil is death on them, as the organic contents break down the low grade mineral oil over time. About all I would use 3 in 1 in the red can on is a squeaky hinge in an indoor application.
I usually lube my SA hubs with a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid, and 30 weight synthetic motor oil. I’ve used it, here and there on the reels, as well. The grease I prefer is Mobilegrease 28, but, it is a high priced, aircraft certified grease and probably overkill on a real. But, I have it sitting on the bench, and use it on everything that needs grease.
The other 3 in 1 oil is sold in a blue and white can, and usually has a picture of an engine on the can. This is straight up 20 weight motor oil, and can be used in more severe applications, including your reels.

Cleaner is mineral spirits in my world. I keep a can of brake cleaner, and an old toothbrush for stubborn areas or dried up grease. Paper towels and compressed air are your friend.

Ted

[GreatLaker]

Ted,
You bring up a good point about compressed air and I agree. Say you don't have an air compressor available? You can buy compressed air in a can that works quite well for small jobs like a fishing reels or your computer key board. I get mine by the case from COSTCO. When the can is empty it goes right in the recycle bin.
Kind Regards,
Bill

[FusilDarne]

Bill,
I have restored cars, motorcycles, bicycles, machinery and other stuff ad nauseam. The cans are handy for a guy in an apartment, or without a proper work space, but, perhaps 20 years ago I added a Quincy two stage 5 horse industrial compressor, that replaced a Speedaire 3 horse single stage compressor. Mine has an elaborate manifold system, that allows me to run a glass bead cabinet, a small filter regulator, a coalescing (industrial paint dryer/filter) or direct to tank air pressure, regulated to about 150psi.

It is far, far too late for me to look back. I can’t live without compressed air.

Ted

[GreatLaker]

Ted,
No doubt about it having an air compressor is great. However, not everyone reading about beginner basics can have a compressor. Other than blowing hard, the compressed air in a can works great, especially if your lungs aren't what they used to be.
Kind Regards,
Bill

[don309]

I use my 1.5 hp compressor (for airbrushing) for small work. I leave it hooked up. Because the wife says I don't clean the lint screen in the drier good enough. Well I do now, LOL. The big compressor is for big toys.