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Mitchell Reel Museum Discussion Group

If you are looking to collect, buy, repair, service, learn, ask questions or go fishing with a vintage Mitchell Fishing Reel, you are at the right place! We are just Mitchell Reel collectors and enthusiast who enjoy an open discussion forum on "vintage" Mitchell Fishing Reels. Please Click Here to learn how to make a post and ask about Mitchell reel service or repairs, get advice on buying or collecting, or any other question in this free public forum.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 3:02 pm • #  
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Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:11 am
Posts: 6
Location: Midlands, UK
As a relative newcomer to Mitchell reels I have enjoyed using my 2 Mitchells over the past year and enjoyed reading the forum and found this website very useful, but I haven't been able to solve my problem with a search of the site. I have bought another Mitchell 300 in a job lot and cleaned it up as it was very gunky inside. After putting it all back together it is now working fine but I noticed the spool skirt moves a 3 or 4 millimeters forwards and backwards away from the main body of the reel. I wondered if this is down to general wear or is this something which can be fixed? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 5:11 pm • #  
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2012 5:28 pm
Posts: 1251
Location: Virginia
Hi Jay,

Welcome to the Group! :sSig_welcome2:

Sounds like you need a shim (brass washer) or two on one side or the other of your rotor cup. There have been several detailed discussions here in this Mitchell Service Talk Forum which will help you diagnose your problem but it's easily corrected so long as your rotor cup doesn't wobble (just a straight forward/backward looseness). If you need a shim or two, after diagnosing the problem, send me a PM with your address and I can send you the shims to correct the problem. Enjoy the Museum, there is a wealth of Mitchell knowledge here and outstanding Mates always willing to help out.

Regards,
Chris


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 5:18 pm • #  
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Posts: 6
Location: Midlands, UK
Hi Chris, thank you for your reply, sorry for my slow response. There are 2 brass washers with what look like aluminum washers either side, located behind the metal plate (sorry i don't know the correct part names!) inside the spool skirt/rota cup. I will have another look at the forum now i know what i am looking for to find out more information and have a look at the reel again. If more brass shims are needed i shall PM you as you suggest. Thank you again, your response and shared knowledge is much appreciated. Keep up the good work.
Kind regards,
Jay


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 1:55 am • #  
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 12:55 am
Posts: 1146
Location: Tuesday
Mitchell 300 disassemble/re-assemble thread:

http://www.mitchellreelmuseum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=1197&sid=a3329a5d7b86c9c66702a87da52e17bc

Mitchell 300 Schematic showing shims:

http://www.networkdimension.com/images/Mitchell/GARCIA-MITCHELL%20300-301(1969).pdf

How to shim a Mitchell 300:

(Any existing aluminum shims are probably jury rig items. All shims should be brass. Though there is a washer between the baffle shims and the baffle plate.)

Quote:
It's best to have the 3 standard shim thickneses for each shim point: 0.10mm/.004", 0.15mm/.006" and 0.20mm/.008".

Shims in other thicknesses can be encountered, bit these were used by Mitchell factory assembly to get a reel just right.

I start out with (1) 0.10mm/.004" shim at the housing-rotor junction...with the reel clean and unlubed.

Then you take up the slack with baffle plate shims, the baffle washer and baffle plate...without the rotor hex nut tightening down on any of that, which would jam the rotor. If you have a full range of shim thicknesses, you can get it down to .001'-.002" of it/out rotor motion...while allowing the rotor to free spin.

The rotor nut tightens when it runs out of thread...done right, there is no pressure on the baffle plate, washer, baffle or head shims.

You don't want to get too radical with housing/rotor shims because having a lot also pushes the line guide forward along with the rotor it's attached to and you get horrible line lay.

One thing to check before even beginning is that the trip tongue cutout on the baffle plate is level...other wise you will have it banging on the trip lever when it shouldn't be.

If you do the above and the trip is banging, continuing to add baffle washers until there's no banging, the rotor is free spinning and the trip lever works...too many baffle shims will eventually jam the rotor.

If that happens, take it all apart and add another shim to the housing/rotor junction and begin again.

Again, having all three shim thicknesses is extremely helpful.

Then move to the pinion gear shim point. You'll need at least one 0.10mm/.004" shim there, assemble and check for roughness/noise. If so, add another shim.

It might occur that it's still rough right up to the point of jamming the pinion gear into the rotor gearing. At that point you should try a different pinion gear and start from scratch with the pinion gear shimming.

If it still is loud/rough....a new rotor is required...if it's a very old reel, you may just have to live with what you have.

The roughness you feel/hear is from the rotor/pinion gear engagement. Messed up teeth on the other gears are more likely to cause a catching/snagging sensation while cranking...but not a horrendous noise.

Then you have to realize that in most cases you are not working with all brand new parts...maybe a mixture of old and new, or even all old with varying degrees of wear.

But if you get the housing/rotor right first, everything is easier...to include not ending up with a reel that is smooth, but lays line terribly.

I find that I rarely use a main gear shim except on older reels where the main gear can graze the housing cover. At a certain point, Mitchell had the cover oilite bushing protrude slightly and solved that issue.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 4:58 am • #  
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Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:11 am
Posts: 6
Location: Midlands, UK
Thanks Smead, the PDF and tutorial were very useful, I shall keep them for reference. After looking again at the shims I realised the baffle plate shims and the brass shims were the wrong way round! I put them back as i found them after cleaning the reel but looked again after reading through the tutorial, now there isn't any play with the spool skirt, problem solved! I suppose its obvious when you know, but as a relative beginner to Mitchells I assumed everything was in the right place but you don't know who's tinkered with it over the years. Also taking the reel apart and putting it back together makes you appreciate the craftsmanship gone into making the reels that you don't really think about when you are fishing with them....but I will now.

Chris I just realised I think you are the ebay buyer I just sold a Mitchell 321 box, ejay0171 from the UK, small world!

Thanks again for the contributions.
Jay


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 5:39 pm • #  
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 12:55 am
Posts: 1146
Location: Tuesday
You are most welcome. Glad that it was a simple fix.

Most people who think that 300's are rough reels do so because shims are missing or improperly placed...properly shimmed it purrs.


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