Mitchell Reel Museum - Mitchell Mates Discussion Group
http://mitchellreelmuseum.com/forum/

330-hard to close bail
http://mitchellreelmuseum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=3914
Page 1 of 1

Author:  outboardnut [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:55 pm ]
Post subject:  330-hard to close bail

C143091
When I crank the handle
Its almost impossible to close the bail
Any suggestions?

Author:  Ted Lanham [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:38 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 330-hard to close bail

outboardnut,
There could be many things that could cause a 330 bail to be difficult to close.
These reels are a bit more complicated than the 300s, but the first thing I'd check would be if the grease in the gear case has aged and gotten hard with age. Many times the gearbox is packed full of lube and most of it isn't necessary.
The second thing to check that all the parts under the baffle plate are clean and in good working order. Many times the plastic cam on the backside of the baffle plate can get worn or damaged from many years of use.
Regards,
Ted Lanham

Author:  saublejohn [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 330-hard to close bail

I can help you if you provide me with some additional information:

Does your bail successfully close at all after you turn the handle? If it does then it might be a matter of miss-alignment of the teeth between the trip lever and the teeth of the bail arm mount. If the teeth mesh properly there should be a gap of about 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch between the rounded end of the trip lever and the center stem of the reel body under the baffle plate when the bail is in the open position. This provides enough space for the cam of the baffle plate to ride initially through before closing the bail. If there is no gap then surfaces are striking each other and this can lead to broken cams on the baffle plate.

To check this out you have to first remove the side cover plate, remove the transfer gear and then the oscillating slide. Once this is off you can now pull out the oscillating shaft. Now remove the nut on top of the baffle plate and slowly and carefully remove the baffle plate. The front side of the baffle plate should have rounded semi-spherical nubs. If most or all of these are gone then you need to repair or get another baffle plate.

To re-mesh proper alignment of teeth loosen the screw holding the articulated bail mount to the reel body. Do not remove the screw - just loosen it. Also, loosen the screw holding the trip lever in place but DO NOT REMOVE IT - JUST LOOSEN IT. With the two screws being loose - hold the rounded end of the trip lever about 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the stem of the reel body when the bail is open and mesh the teeth back together. If no teeth are broken or missing, then all you now need to do is tighten down these two screws and the gap will remain when the bail is in the open position. Re-install everything and you should now have a better closing bail. It's a good idea to also add a little dab of lithium based grease to the rounded portion of the trip lever as well as to the riding surface of the cam of the baffle plate. I do this with all of my 330's and 440's and it helps. Let me know how everything turns out. I know it all sounds complicated but 330/440's are complicated reels. When they mesh up properly - the reward is sweet.

Author:  Wallace Carney [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 330-hard to close bail

Hello Mates!

It could be something simple like the bail wire has been bent. If so, it will not work properly. To fix, take off the small screw holding one side of the bail wire. From there you can determine what adjustments are needed. Just my thoughts...

Wallace

Author:  outboardnut [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 330-hard to close bail

boy you guys are great
When I get a "me" day I will dive in the reel

Author:  outboardnut [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 7:39 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 330-hard to close bail

well i think i figured it out
When I look in the hole
I see that the round part of the trip lever is worn
I really don't want to spend money on it
I have so many reels anyways
I guess i will put it on eBay in winter
Thank you

Author:  saublejohn [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 330-hard to close bail

Let me know in a private message re selling me the 330.

Author:  blackrose [ Sat Aug 17, 2013 5:55 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 330-hard to close bail

If the teeth mesh properly there should be a gap of about 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch between the rounded end of the trip lever and the center stem of the reel body under the baffle plate when the bail is in the open position. This provides enough space for the cam of the baffle plate to ride initially through before closing the bail. If there is no gap then surfaces are striking each other and this can lead to broken cams on the baffle plate.

Author:  saublejohn [ Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:39 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 330-hard to close bail

saublejohn wrote:
I can help you if you provide me with some additional information:

Does your bail successfully close at all after you turn the handle? If it does then it might be a matter of miss-alignment of the teeth between the trip lever and the teeth of the bail arm mount. If the teeth mesh properly there should be a gap of about 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch between the rounded end of the trip lever and the center stem of the reel body under the baffle plate when the bail is in the open position. This provides enough space for the cam of the baffle plate to ride initially through before closing the bail. If there is no gap then surfaces are striking each other and this can lead to broken cams on the baffle plate.

To check this out you have to first remove the side cover plate, remove the transfer gear and then the oscillating slide. Once this is off you can now pull out the oscillating shaft. Now remove the nut on top of the baffle plate and slowly and carefully remove the baffle plate. The front side of the baffle plate should have rounded semi-spherical nubs. If most or all of these are gone then you need to repair or get another baffle plate.

To re-mesh proper alignment of teeth loosen the screw holding the articulated bail mount to the reel body. Do not remove the screw - just loosen it. Also, loosen the screw holding the trip lever in place but DO NOT REMOVE IT - JUST LOOSEN IT. With the two screws being loose - hold the rounded end of the trip lever about 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the stem of the reel body when the bail is open and mesh the teeth back together. If no teeth are broken or missing, then all you now need to do is tighten down these two screws and the gap will remain when the bail is in the open position. Re-install everything and you should now have a better closing bail. It's a good idea to also add a little dab of lithium based grease to the rounded portion of the trip lever as well as to the riding surface of the cam of the baffle plate. I do this with all of my 330's and 440's and it helps. Let me know how everything turns out. I know it all sounds complicated but 330/440's are complicated reels. When they mesh up properly - the reward is sweet.

Page 1 of 1 All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
https://www.phpbb.com/