Mitchell Reel Forum

For quite some time now I have been on the verge of breaking down my late father's old half bail Mitchell for spares (mainly because I had so much trouble trying find the right parts for it, not least of all the handle which I had hamfistedly destroyed in an attempt to service it many years ago), but an experimental respray of the rotor worked out so well, that I decided to do a concerted search for period correct parts and totally restore it.

The logo etching is something I have tried and failed to do well in the past, but on the main paint coat it came out spectacularly well....until I lacquered it..sigh, but while not as good as it was, it is still acceptable.

So it has had a full refinish and etch, a replacement main gear (because the handle broke off, leaving the threaded part in the gear shaft, which I could not budge and I ended up loosing too may threads). It also needed an axle and a transfer gear (borrowed the originals for other reels). Oh, and some decent screws.
The original handle was the early metal conical type, but it now has a temporary plastic one.

So here it is (A6xxxx stamped into the reel foot; difficult to read the numbers, even before the refin).
It's not perfect, but it was a lot of fun to do.

Paul

And the others that didn't load into my first post.

Oops! I forgot to post a photo of the reel before the refin.

Here:

Paul,

The effort you put in to bring this reel back really shows. Congratulations on a job well done. Finding a proper handle for it will take some time, but in the meantime you can enjoy using the reel and no one but us forum members will probably know the difference. My eyes think they see the serial # as A68385.

Best Of Luck With It & Tight Lines,

Ed Horan

I think it looks great. I hope it gets to go fishing from time to time, and brings you joy and memories of your Dad.

Ted

Ed Horan wrote: ↑Wed Sep 20, 2023 12:50 am Paul,

The effort you put in to bring this reel back really shows. Congratulations on a job well done. Finding a proper handle for it will take some time, but in the meantime you can enjoy using the reel and no one but us forum members will probably know the difference. My eyes think they see the serial # as A68385.

Best Of Luck With It & Tight Lines,

Ed Horan

Thank you for your kind words Ed, it was a very nerve wracking experience, but I was so pleased with the result, that I just wanted to share it with you all.

I know there are one or two skilled restorers here, and so I was a little unsure of showing off my efforts.

One of my early half bail Mitchells has what I think is the right handle for this reel, with a more rounded off end to the counter weight, and is probably a replacement to a broken original? I am pleased to report that I have 'finally' managed to find a very early handle more period correct for that reel, so with a swap, I should hopefully end up with 2 more or less correct spec reels, but you are right about how difficult they are to come by; this incoming handle took me a long time to find.

I'm looking forward to getting my dad's old Mitchell back on the riverbank. It will feel strange, but very satisfying.
It sat for years in the back of his shed, just gathering dust.

Thank you for sorting out the serial number for me, for some reason I just couldn't get my head around it.

All the best,

Paul

FusilDarne wrote: ↑Wed Sep 20, 2023 1:38 am I think it looks great. I hope it gets to go fishing from time to time, and brings you joy and memories of your Dad.

Ted

Thank you Ted, it would be a crime not to use it, and yes, great memories.

Just a little update,

To get the restoration as period correct as possible, I bought a couple of cheap..ish reels with broken feet (one had a handle that I needed to get my restored one closer to original; there is more to it than that, but I will save it for now).
One was listed as being a second version but with a 3rd version gear plate and gears (boomerang AR lever), and sure enough that was exactly what it was (tell tail foundry marks and very early bail spring.

The second one to arrive just stated it as an early half bail (plain no-slot baffle plate and bulbous line guide), so I thought...hmm..early 3rd version, but when I took it apart, all signs pointed to early / mid 2nd version (what a coincidence eh!?).

Here are the tell tail parts from each one (foundry mark etc.):

These reels possibly suggest that the anti-reverse lever was changed before the other changes. Remember 'version' is a thing we created to talk about the reels, whereas Mitchell just talked of 'continuous improvements' saying their were over 500.

Great save on the paint job, I wish I could do that.

I know you are UK based, did you know that Metal Micky on eBay has replica screws that are 99% correct you really have to look to see a difference. He doesn't list his Mitchell spares but he has broken up 4000 reels and most parts for the 300 style reels.

So, did you manage to find a metal handle knob for your Dad's reel?

Bailarm wrote: ↑Sun Sep 24, 2023 11:08 am These reels possibly suggest that the anti-reverse lever was changed before the other changes. Remember 'version' is a thing we created to talk about the reels, whereas Mitchell just talked of 'continuous improvements' saying their were over 500.

Great save on the paint job, I wish I could do that.

I know you are UK based, did you know that Metal Micky on eBay has replica screws that are 99% correct you really have to look to see a difference. He doesn't list his Mitchell spares but he has broken up 4000 reels and most parts for the 300 style reels.

So, did you manage to find a metal handle knob for your Dad's reel?

Thank you for that very comforting information on the supply of screws Bailarm (yes I am UK based; Dorset actually; I could definitely do with a small stock of them), thanks also for your kind words on my first refinish.

Yes, I did find a handle with the correct conical metal grip, but it was very early (came off the reel in the picture with the early transfer gear in the shot.
The best thing is, I had an early reel with a later handle (rounder end to the counterweight), so I did a swap, and voila! Two reels more in keeping with what you would expect to see on them.

So here is the final result:

That looks really good. I would love to know what products you used.

Most of the advice on here is US based and uses products we just can't get.

Hello Paul.

I'm one of the members here that does the restorations. In looking through your photos. I have one suggestion to help you out. My suggestion is to stop worrying. You did a fine job. Your dad would be proud.

Christian

Bailarm wrote: ↑Thu Sep 28, 2023 5:48 am That looks really good. I would love to know what products you used.

Most of the advice on here is US based and uses products we just can't get.

I can't get to my box of paints and bits at the moment, but I can tell you now that I sanded the reel with fine wet and dry, down to the original orange/red primer, and what small areas were bare metal (not a lot, thankfully) were sanded also. Then a very light dusting of grey primer.
I then wiped all the parts over thoroughly in Isopropyl Alcohol.

As for paint, this started out as just an experiment, so I used whatever I had about the house (except for the lacquer, which I had bought previously for another 'first reel', which I failed miserably on the re-etching of the wording, so that was that).

The black paint was a rattle can matt black (RS pro I think?); four or five light coats, and then very light sanding of any rough or high spots (I'll give you the accurate paint details later), which is very fast drying, and in less than an hour is perfect for clearing out the Mitchell Script on the gear plate without chipping it (I used a needle nosed watchmakers screwdriver for that...no flat or philips point), which worked great, though you have to be careful, making sure you clear a chanel from the opposite side when it gets hard to move the tool.

A few hours after that, I lacquered the parts with another four light coats of 1K super clear rattle can lacquer, which allowed me to T-Cut down to a very smooth glass like finish after a couple of days (though this lacquer drys and hardens very quickly, it still requires a few days before you can really go to town on it...needs lots of elbow grease..lol!).

One thing that caused me some consternation, was that a day after lacquering, I found I had to clear out the script again; I did it, but it never looked as good as when I first did it, hey ho.....

I am probably making Christian and our other restorers cringe on this? Will it hold up? I don't know, but time will tell I suppose?

My next one will be completely stripped and etch primered first, and I may get some satin black as a finsh, but while a lot shinier than it probably was new, I really like it. Ah! ... I will also mask off the inside edges of the screw countersinks to stop the paint cracking when the screws are tightened down; didn't have a big problem with that, but just erring on the side of caution.

All the best,

Paul

Christian wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 9:56 am Hello Paul.

I'm one of the members here that does the restorations. In looking through your photos. I have one suggestion to help you out. My suggestion is to stop worrying. You did a fine job. Your dad would be proud.

Christian

Hi Christian, yes we have spoken before on my failed attempts at a refinish, and in truth, I was inspired by your work, which is exemplary, so thank you; and thank you also for your kind words. I was hoping you would comment, but at the same time a little worried..lol.

Cheers.

F.T.A.O. Bailarm (and of course all who are interested),

Ok, here we go:

The paint is RS pro matt black (RS no. 764-3039) and the Lacquer is: TechniQ Glass Clear Lacquer - 1K clearcoat solvent based acrylic, 500ml can (adjustable nozzle, very hard finish, scratch resistant, UV proof and quick drying).

So far, I have seen no evidence of incompatability with these products and all my previous paint jobs (not reels) are still good.

Bailarm wrote: ↑Sun Sep 24, 2023 11:08 am These reels possibly suggest that the anti-reverse lever was changed before the other changes. Remember 'version' is a thing we created to talk about the reels, whereas Mitchell just talked of 'continuous improvements' saying their were over 500.

Hi Bailarm,

I recently acquired another early boomerang AR lever model for restoration, and this one also has earlier foundry marks, but has a non brass insert transfer gear.
I will be painting it tomorrow; etch primer first, then red primer to seal, and the main coat will be satin black enamel, high temp engine paint.

The Aluvac trademark was for products made at the Fonderie de Precision, Boulevard National, Nanterre, Paris. They also made Solide stylish toy cars an the plastic bodies for Jaz clocks ( Owned by a Carpano family member!) Also parts for Piaggio and Lambretta scooters,

I put an image up of the factory in another thread.

Bailarm wrote: ↑Tue Nov 28, 2023 9:36 am The Aluvac trademark was for products made at the Fonderie de Precision, Boulevard National, Nanterre, Paris. They also made Solide stylish toy cars an the plastic bodies for Jaz clocks ( Owned by a Carpano family member!) Also parts for Piaggio and Lambretta scooters,

I put an image up of the factory in another thread.

Yes, I saw those amazing images, thank you for posting them, and also for the interesting info on what they produced there.

I finished the restoration on that reel; it wasn't too bad before the work, but it had way too much edge metal and red primer generally, showing on all parts of the reel (some may like the asthetics of that?), so I made the decision to refinish it; see attached photos. The handle grips are a bit of s poblem, so I am leaving those for a later date

I have serial A03170 awaiting completion (I mad a total hash of the rotor paint, which was my fault for not stripping it down to bare metal...sometimes it is a roaring succes, and at other times a complete disaster, as with mine on this occasion.

Unless it is absolutely necessary, I won't be doing any more refins; too much elbow grease required..lol!

Last image.

Hello gentlemen, I just wanted to say to each one of you, but I think he did a wonderful job posting and responding! It just can’t get any better than this!

Paul, I will tell you directly how impressed I am with your restoration work! I have done a few half bail restorations myself, so I know how much work is involved. I see Christian joined in With his knowledge. That was the best thing that couldn’t have happened to you!

Christian‘s work is amazing. If anyone knows out the restore a Mitchell reel of all models, Christian is the man! Both of you, Please keep doing what you do best and thanks to everyone for sharing!

Kind regards to all,
Wallace

Wallace Carney wrote: ↑Wed Dec 13, 2023 3:52 am Hello gentlemen, I just wanted to say to each one of you, but I think he did a wonderful job posting and responding! It just can’t get any better than this!

Paul, I will tell you directly how impressed I am with your restoration work! I have done a few half bail restorations myself, so I know how much work is involved. I see Christian joined in With his knowledge. That was the best thing that couldn’t have happened to you!

Christian‘s work is amazing. If anyone knows out the restore a Mitchell reel of all models, Christian is the man! Both of you, Please keep doing what you do best and thanks to everyone for sharing!

Kind regards to all,
Wallace

Thank you for your very kind words Wallace, it was indeed both yourself and Christian, who's amazing work inspired me to try and obtain a perfect result, though I can only aspire to being as good.
Christians own words of encouragement and advice have helped me greatly too.

I will continue to strive for perfection, and thank you (all) again for your kind comments and support.

All the best,

Paul